2009/02/05

Magnificent Victorian bracelet

Magnificent Victorian bracelet, signed: L.Gautrait

High quality Victorian enameled diamond and pearl bracelet signed L.Gautrait
Click the picture to get to the descriptive page of this bracelet.


This time it is with even greater pleasure than normal that we discuss a piece of extraordinary quality.

The magnificent bracelet depicted above is made and signed by the illustrious jeweller/goldsmith/designer L.Gautrait. In the book "Pariser Schmuck, Vom Zweiten Kaiserreich zur Belle Epoque" (German for "Parisian jewelry, from the second Empire to the Belle Epoque") from 1989 (ISBN 3-7774-5220-3) a special chapter is dedicated to L.Gautrait. Most of the information there seems to come from Vever's book (the "bible" for antique jewelers, written around 1900) but it is also mentioned that Gautrait, just like Lalique, uses brilliants and precious stones more as discrete accents.

The bracelet is enameled in three colors (pink, green and little white accents) and embellished with floral ornaments, golden details in and on the enameled surfaces, pearls, rose cut diamonds and old mine brilliant cut diamonds. Two types of rectangular links (three "laying" and three "standing") alternate one by one and are connected by two little orient pearls and a little white enameled flower. The closure of the bracelet is skillfully hidden in a "standing" link. It is also on the clasp of the closure where we can find the hallmarks.

The mastermark on this bracelet is that of Léon Gariod. His company was established by Gaucher and Tonnelier in 1859 and Gariod took over the company 1884. The company with its address in Rue St. Augustin 29 in Paris became specialized in articulated bracelets and mat gold chains with precious stones. What's interesting about this company is that they worked very closely together with L.Gautrait, an illustrious jeweler of the Art Nouveau period of who not much, if any, biographical information is known. According to Vever, Gautrait was a "ciseleur-modeleur" and fidèle collaborateur" of the Parisian jewelers Léon Gariod. Vever characterized his colleague as an "excellent perfectionist jeweler with a delicate taste".

High quality Victorian enameled diamond and pearl bracelet signed L.Gautrait

Click the picture to get to the descriptive page of this bracelet.











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